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FAVOURITE PHOTO

DAY 2 - OUARZAZATE TO TINGHIR INCLUDING OFF ROAD 4X4 DRIVING.

YESTERDAY WE LEFT MARRAKECH AND HEADED OVER THE HIGH ATLAS
MOUNTAINS, DISCOVERED AN AMAZING HISTORICAL KASBAH AND A
WELL KNOWN HERITAGE SITE THAT HAS HOUSED A NUMBER OF
FAMOUS MOVIES INCLUDING STAR WARS.

TODAY WE WERE GOING TO EXPERIENCE SOMETHING EQUALLY
AMAZING AND DIVERSE.....

JUST OUT OF OUARZAZATE WAS THIS HUGE LAKE.

WE FELT THAT THIS COULD BE OUR LAST SIGHTING FOR A WHILE
OF LUSH TROPICAL SCENERY....

WHEREAS JUST UP THE ROAD WE STOPPED BRIEFLY TO VIEW VAST
UNTOUCHED COUNTRYSIDE.

WE TURNED OFF TOWARDS SKOURA AND HABIB STOPPED TO
SHOW US THIS GRAND KASBAH THAT HOSTED THE MOVIE
LAWRENCE OF ARABIA.

KASBAH AMRIDIL

THIS KASBAH WAS BUILT IN THE 17TH CENTURY BY THE NASSIRI.
IT IS INTERESTING TO LEARN THAT THE NASSIRI FAMILY STILL LIVES
HERE. THEY HAVE CREATED A MUSEUM WITH TOOLS THAT WERE
USED CENTURIES AGO.

THEY STILL CARRY OUT DAILY LIFE HERE WITH THE OLD OLIVE OIL
PRESS, BREAD OVENS AND HAPPY GOATS MEANDERING AROUND
IN THE COURTYARD.

OFF ROAD 4X4 DRIVING

IT WAS NOT LONG AFTER THIS THAT WE VENTURED OFF ROAD.
HABIB TURNED UP THE AIR-CON, PUT SOME LOCAL MUSIC ON....
AND WE HIT THE ROCKY DIRT TRACK TOWARDS BOUTAGHRAR.

MEETING BERBER NOMADS

THIS WAS ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF OUR DESERT TRIP.
MEETING REAL BERBER NOMADS.

IT WAS A REAL HUMBLING EXPERIENCE AND A PRIGILEGE.
THIS IS HOW THEY LIVE, IN HOLLOWED OUT CAVES AS WELL AS
THE TENT ABOVE.

THIS WAS A TOTAL SURPRISE. HABIB PULLED UP IN THE MIDDLE OF
NOWHERE AND ASKED US IF WE WANTED TO MEET SOME NOMADS.

WHAT?..... MEET REAL NOMADS? WOW!!
WELL YOU DIDN'T HAVE TO ASK ME TWICE!!

AFTER SOME PLEASANTRIES, HABIB OBVIOUSLY KNEW THE FAMILY...
WE WERE ASKED TO JOIN THEM FOR SOME TEA.
IT WAS A TRULY AWESOME EXPERIENCE!

THE FAMILY WERE GRANDPA, MUM, 2 BOYS, 1 GIRL AND A BABY.
DAD WAS OUT HERDING THE ANIMALS.

WE SAT DOWN ON RUGS INSIDE THE CAVE AND SHARED MINT TEA,
SMILES AND GOOS AND GAAS OVER THE BABY
I TELL YOU.... THIS WAS A ONCE IN A LIFE TIME EXPERIENCE!!!

I GAVE TWO OF THE BEAD BRACELETS THAT GILLIAN FROM
VIRTUALTOURIST GAVE ME IN PARIS TO THE LITTLE GIRL WHO WAS
REALLY EXCITED AND HAPPY WITH HER NEW PRESENT.

WE REALLY WISHED THAT WE HAD HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT
HAVING SOME COLOURING PENCILS AND COLOURING BOOKS WITH US.
SO THAT IS A TIP FOR YOU IF YOU PLAN TO DO THE SAME TRIP.

VALLEY OF THE ROSES

COMING INTO BOUTAGHRAR (Valley of the Roses) WAS A
PLEASANT SURPRISE. IT WAS LIKE AN OASES COMPARED TO WHERE
WE HAD JUST BEEN

WE STOPPED AT SOME SMALL GIFT SHOPS WHERE THEY WERE
SELLING MOROCCAN ROSE OIL.

HUBBY AND I WERE MORE INTERESTED IN TAKING SOME PHOTOS
ACROSS THE ROAD OF THE LOCALS ENJOYING THE RIVER AND
GOING ABOUT THEIR DAILY ACIVITIES.

BOUMALNE DADES

LUNCH AT HOTEL LA KASBAH DE DADES EX CHEMS WAS NICE
AND RELAXED. THE VERANDAH OVERLOOKED THE VALLEY
BELOW. HABIB, EVER THE ATTENTATIVE HOST LEFT US TO ENJOY
OUR SURROUNDINGS.

ACROSS THE ROAD WAS A BIG NOTICE BOARD WITH AN
AWESOME PAINTING. FROM THE VERANDAH, WE COULD LOOK
OUT AT THE VALLEY BELOW SURROUNDED WITH MAGNIFICANT
MOUNTAINS.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN WE STOPPED BRIEFLY TO ADMIRE THE
SCENERY. SOME LOCAL CHILDREN CAME UP THE HILL FROM
NOWHERE AND PRESENTED US WITH THEIR HOME MADE GIFT
OF A CAMEL MADE OUT OF STRAW. OF COURSE WE PAID THEM
HANSOMELY FOR OUR NEW PRESENT

ON THE WAY TO THE STUNNING DADES GORGES, WE STOPPED
BRIEFLY TO ADMIRE THE MOUNTAIN LANDSCAPE.
HABIB EXPLAINED THAT THE MOUNTAINS WHERE WE SAW WRITING
MEANT GOD, KING, NATION.

DADES GORGES

WHAT A VIEW!!

HABIB KNEW JUST THE PLACE TO STOP BEFORE WE TRAVERSED
THE STEEP WINDY ROAD DOWN TOWARDS TINGHIR, OUR REST
STOP FOR THE NIGHT.

WE STOPPED AT CAFE TIMZZILLITE FOR A COOL DRINK AND A
VIEW TO DIE FOR!

TINGHIR

HABIB COULD NOT HAVE PICKED A BETTER PLACE FOR US TO
STAY THAN RIAD DAR AYOUR IN TINGHIR.

BUT.... FIRST OF ALL..... HERE IS A CARPET STORY

AFTER WE HAD SETTLED IN, WE HAD A BIT OF TIME TO KILL BEFORE
DINNER.

HABIB INTRODUCED US TO A LOCAL WHO OFFERED TO TAKE US FOR
A WALK AROUND. SURE.... WHY NOT.

IT WAS NICE WALKING ALONG THE RIVER BANK AND THEN UP THE
HILL FOR A LOVELY VIEW OVER TOWN.
THERE WAS A WEDDING HAPPENING AND THE MUSIC WAS LOUD.
A LONE DONKEY WAS HAVING HIS LATE AFTERNOON SNACK

RAZOUK TOOK US THROUGH THE SMALL ALLEYWAYS OF TINGHIR
AND TO HIS HUMBLE HOME.

WE FELT REALLY PRIVILEGED TO SIT WITH RAZOUK AND HIS SISTER
AND ENJOY SOME MINT TEA. BUT THERE WAS A CATCH.....

IT WAS NOT UNTIL RAZOUK BOUGHT OUT SOME CARPETS THAT WE
REALISED WHAT WAS GOING ON. HIS SISTER SHOWED US HOW SHE
MAKES THE CARPETS.... SPINNING THE WOOL AND CAMEL HAIR ETC.

I HAD AVOIDED BUYING A CARPET BEFORE NOW.....
AFTER ALL... HOW WAS I GOING TO SHIP A CARPET FROM MOROCCO
ALL THE WAY TO AUSTRALIA?

BUT, WE COULD NOT REFUSE. HOW COULD ONE REFUSE SUCH
AMAZING HOSPITALITY?...

SO WE BOUGHT THIS LITTLE CARPET WHICH HOLDS PRIME PLACE ON
OUR LOUNGE WALL WE HAD IT SHIPPED FROM MARAKECH HOME
AND THE SHIPPING PRICE ALONE COST MORE THAN THE CARPET!!

SO TIP..... YES, IT IS WELL WORTH IT TO BUY AN AUTHENTIC CARPET
FROM A SMALL VILLAGE IN MOROCCO.... BUT EXPECT TO PAY A
SMALL FORTUNE FOR IT

RIAD DAR AYOUR - TINGHIR

I LOVED IT HERE! THE STAFF WERE SO NICE. THEY MADE US FEEL
EXTREMELY WELCOME.

WE HAD A MAGNIFICANT VIEW FROM THE LITTLE VERANDAH OFF
OUR ROOM. DINNER WAS FUN I EVEN HAD A DANCE WITH THE
STAFF. WE BOTH ENJOYED IT

I WOULD RECOMMEND THIS PLACE TOTALLY IF YOU PLAN TO STAY
IN TINGHIR.

~~~oOo~~~

NEXT UP -

SLEEPING OUT UNDER THE STARS IN THE SAHARA DESERT!

THIS, PLUS MUCH MORE!.............. TO BE CONTINUED ON DAY 3...

FAVOURITE PHOTO

WE FINISHED YESTERDAY WITH A FUN NIGHT IN OUR RIAD IN TINGHIR.
IT WAS SAD TO LEAVE THIS LITTLE PLACE SURROUNDED BY THE GREAT
DADES MOUNTAINS AND TODRA GORGES. I COULD EASILY HAVE
ENJOYED ANOTHER DAY HERE.

IT'S FUNNY.... THAT EVEN THOUGH I FELT AT THE TIME THAT WE GOT
RIPPED OFF BY A LOCAL CARPET SELLER.... NOW I FEEL LIKE IT WOULD
HAVE BEEN NICE TO HAVE THIS LOCAL SHOW US AROUND A BIT MORE.
RAZOUK.... YOU REALLY WERE A COOL GUY

TODAY, WE WERE ABOUT TO VENTURE INTO SOME ROUGH TERRITORY,
TAKING US THROUGH CHANGING COUNTRYSIDE AND TO THIS SMALL
VILLAGE RIGHT ON THE EDGE OF THE SAHARA WHERE HABIB OUR GUIDE
GREW UP.

TODRA GORGES

WE HAD QUITE A BIT OF MILEAGE TO COVER TODAY SO WE STARTED
OUT EARLY. QUICK PIT STOP AT THE HUGE TODRA GORGES. I MEAN
HUGE!! I IMAGINE THE HOTEL HERE WOULD COST A FORTUNE

OFF ROAD 4X4 TO JEBEL SAGHRO MOUNTAINS

TIME TO TAKE A SHORT CUT AND HIT THE DUSTY TRACK TOWARDS
TAZZARINE AND ON TO THE SAHARA DESERT.

THIS PART OF THE JOURNEY MAY BE BORING FOR SOME. I FOUND IT
INTERESTING. I COULD CERTAINLY SEE THAT WE WERE ON THE WAY
TO THE DESERT. LONG FLAT ROADS TO NOWHERE, FOLLOWED BY
TRAVERSING AROUND MOUNTAINOUS TERRAINE DEVOID OF THE
USUAL GREENERY THAT MOUNTAINS USUALLY ATTRACT.......

ALL THIS KEPT ME INTERESTED... ALONG WITH THE GREAT LOCAL MUSIC THAT
HABIB WAS PLAYING WHILST WE SAT IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE COMFORT
WITH THE AIR-CON ON FULL BALL

QUICK STOP TO STRETCH OUR LEGS.
HOWIE WAS LUCKY ENOUGH TO FOUND A WEE TREE

N'KOB

THE SHORT CUT DIRT TRACK ENDED AT N'KOB AND BACK ONTO
THE BITUMEN LEADING THROUGH TAZZARINE, TAMEGROUTE
AND TO M'HAMID ON THE EDGE OF THE SAHARA.

I SAW THIS HOUSE HEADING INTO N'KOB THAT LOOKED LIKE
IT WAS STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION.

I WAS LEFT SCRATCHING MY HEAD A BIT?....
WOULDN'T IT HAVE BEEN BETTER TO WORK ON THE ACCESS
FIRST?.... SEEMS LIKE A BIT OF A ROUGH DRIVEWAY TO ME?...

AFTER DRIVING UP AND THROUGH THE VILLAGE, WE STOPPED
BRIEFLY FOR A VIEW OVER THE VALLEY.

SOME CHILDREN CAME DOWN TO SAY HI AND HABIB GAVE
THEM A BIT OF CHANGE.

NOT TOO FAR NOW...

WE DROVE THROUGH TAZZARINE WITHOUT STOPPING. NOT
TOO MUCH TO SEE HERE.

TAMEGROUTE

THERE WERE HOWEVER A COUPLE OF THINGS OF INTEREST IN
TAMEGROUTE.

TAMEGROUTE IS THE HOME OF LOVELY POTTERY. WE STOPPED
AT A LITTLE SHOP AND HABIB TOOK US AROUND THE BACK AND
SHOWED US HOW THEY MAKE IT SITTING IN DUG OUT HOLES
TO KEEP COOL AND ENSURE THEY DON'T BEND TOO MUCH.
AND WITH KILN HOLES OUT BACK TO FIRE THE POTTERY.

TAMEGROUTE ALSO HAS SOMETHING ELSE THAT IS SPECIAL.
HABIB TOOK US THROUGH A LABYRINTH OF SMALL STREETS
TO AN AMAZING KORANIC LIBRARY WHERE THOUSANDS OF
ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPTS ARE KEPT.

NOW THAT IS SOMETHING YOU DON'T SEE EVERY DAY IN
YOUR TRAVELS. VERY INTERESTING AND INTREGUING.

HABIB EXPLAINED THAT WE WERE NOW IN THE DRAA VALLEY
WHERE THE PALMS MEET THE DESERT AND TRUE ENOUGH
WE WATCHED AS THE PALMS GOT LESS AND LESS AND THE
DESERT LOOMED AHEAD.

WE SAW OUR FIRST DESERT CAMEL

AND A DUST STORM THAT WE HAD TO STRATEGICALLY AVOID.

M'HAMID

MAIN STREET OF M'HAMID. HABIB IS A BERBER NOMAD BORN
AND BRED IN THIS LITTLE TOWN. AS WE DROVE DOWN THE
MAIN AND ONLY STREET, IT WAS TOUCHING TO SEE HOW MANY
LOCALS RACED OVER TO SAY HELLO AND DO THE MOROCCAN
MALE GREETING

WE FELT PRIVILEGED TO BE WITH SUCH A CELEB

BUT THINGS WERE ABOUT TO GET A WHOLE LOT BETTER!

NOT ONLY DID WE HAVE THE PRIVILEGE OF SMILING AT THE
LOCALS THAT GREETED OUR GUIDE, BUT HABIB DROVE AROUND
A BACK STREET AND INVITED US TO COME IN AND HAVE A FEED
WITH HIS FAMILY! WOW! WHAT A GRAND PRIVILEGE!!!

A HUGE TAGINE FEAST WAS PRESENTED IN THE MIDDLE OF
THE FAMILY ROOM AND WE SAT DOWN ON NICE PILLOWS ON
THE FLOOR AND ALL TUCKED IN EATING WITH OUR HANDS
AND DIPPING THE HOME MADE BREAD INTO THE JUICES.
I TELL YOU.... IT WAS ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC!!!

HUBBY AND I FELT HUMBLED AND PRIVILEGED, AND THE FAMILY
WARMTH WAS SO EVIDENT
SORRY.... NO PICTURES. WE DIDN'T THINK THAT WOULD BE
APPROPRIATE.

SAHARA DESERT

OUR FIRST NIGHT SLEEPING UNDER THE STARS IN THE SAHARA

THIS CAMP SITE WASN'T FAR FROM M'HAMID.
A MISTY SUNSET GREETED US.

WE WERE ASKED IF WE WANTED TO SLEEP IN A LITTLE HUT OR
IF WE WANTED OUR BED OUTSIDE. THAT'S A NO BRAINER

EVEN AFTER A BIG DAY, I MANAGED TO WAKE A FEW TIMES AND
JUST LOOK UP AT THE STARS AND LISTEN TO THE VARIOUS
DESERT SOUNDS OF INSECTS AND DISTANT CAMELS.
AN EXPERIENCE I WILL NEVER FORGET

NEXT MORNING OUR CAMELS ARRIVED.
YES, WE WERE ABOUT TO RIDE THE CAMELS OUT OF THE DESERT.
THE ORIGINAL PLAN WAS FOR US TO RIDE INTO THE DESERT...
BUT THE SANDSTORM THE PREVIOUS DAY MEANT THAT PLAN B
WAS IN PLACE.

PLAN B WAS GOOD

MY CAMEL - ISN'T SHE CUTE

HUBBY'S CAMEL - EQUALLY CUTE

WE SAW A NOMAD CAMP WITH TWO YOUNG ONES

AND WHEN WE ARRIVED AT M'HAMID .... OUR BUTTS WERE A BIT
SORE.... BUT THE CAMEL RIDE OUT OF THE SAHARA DESERT WAS
A MEMORY THAT WE WILL NEVER FORGET!

NEXT UP - ANOTHER NIGHT SLEEPING UNDER THE STARS IN A
BIGGER DESERT CAMP WITH BIGGER DUNES!!
AND BETTER PHOTOS!!!!

FAVOURITE PHOTO

THE PREVIOUS DAY SAW US SLEEPING UNDER THE STARS IN THE
SAHARA DESERT NOT FAR OUT FROM M'HAMID, A SMALL TOWN
ON THE EDGE OF THE DESERT AND WHERE OUR GUIDE HABIB
WAS BROUGHT UP.

THIS MORNING, WE RODE OUT OF THE DESERT ON CAMELS.
A WONDERFUL EXPERIENCE!

DOESN'T GET ANY BETTER.

~~~oOo~~~

ACTUALLY IT DOES!! MORE ABOUT THAT LATER....

HABIB GREETED US BACK IN M'HAMID AND GAVE US A COUPLE OF
SMALL GIFTS INCLUDING A BERBER SCARF EACH. HE ALSO GAVE
ME A LOVELY LITTLE SILVER NECKLASS OF A HAND WITH A BLUE
EYE IN THE MIDDLE.

HABIB SHOWED HUBBY HOW TO PUT ON HIS SCARF. I'LL UPLOAD
THE VIDEO WHEN I WORK OUT HOW.

BLUE IS THE COLOUR OF BERBER NOMADS. OTHER NOMADS HAVE
DIFFERENT COLOURS THAT SIGNIFY THEIR TRIBE.

HABIB HAD A BIT OF BUSINESS TO DO IN TOWN SO WE HAD A
WANDER AROUND AND FOUND A NICE LITTLE CAFE FOR A SNACK
AND COFFEE AND A BIT OF PEOPLE AND DONKEY WATCHING.

NOW FOR THE BEST BIT

WE WERE HEADED ACROSS MILES OF DESERT SAND AS FAR AS
YOU COULD SEE TOWARDS THE HUGE DUNES OF CHEGAGA AND
OUR DESERT CAMP FOR TONIGHT.

YOU WOULDN'T THINK THAT YOU COULD SEE ANOTHER VEHICLE
OUT HERE IN THIS REMOTE DESTINATION. BUT WE DID.

NOT ONLY THAT, BUT WE SAW A FEW OTHER 4X4s HEADED IN
THE SAME DIRECT. NO ROADS OUT HERE THOUGH... SO HABIB
PUT PEDDLE TO METAL AND OVERTOOK THE LOT HAHA....
SAHARA DESERT PEAK TRAFFIC HOUR

CHEGAGA BIVOUCA CAMP

ARRIVING AT HABIB'S CAMP SITE AT CHEGAGA DUNES WAS AMAZING!
WE WALKED UP THE HUGE DUNES. HOWARD MADE IT TO THE TOP...
I JUST SAT AND ENJOYED WATCHING THE SUN SET OVER THE SAHARA.

BY THIS TIME ONE OF HABIB'S STAFF HAD ARRIVED WITH SOME FRENCH
TOURISTS. WE HAD DINNER BY GAS LANTERN AND THEN THEY BROUGHT
OUT THE DRUMS AND WE HAD A PARTY IN THE SAHARA

AND ANOTHER NIGHT JUST US SLEEPING UNDER THE STARS. THE OTHERS
OPTED TO STAY IN THE CABINS. SILLY THEM
HOW AWESOME IS THAT!

NEXT MORNING WE HAD TO SAY GOODBYE TO THE DESERT AND HEAD
BACK THE QUICK NO ROAD WAY TO MARRAKECH.

BERBER CAMP IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE.

WE STOPPED QUICKLY AND HABIB HAD A CHAT. MINUTES LATER
HE BOUGHT A ROCK... (METEORITE). BACK IN THE CAR HABIB
EXPLAINED THAT METEORITE CAN FETCH VERY GOOD MONEY.

ANOTHER INTERESTING SIGHT. AN EMPTY PETROL STATION IN
THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE.

THERE WERE A COUPLE OF LOCALS SITTING UNDER THE TREE
WHO WANTED MONEY TO SHOW YOU AROUND. WE JUST
STOPPED, WOUND DOWN THE WINDOWS, TOOK A FEW QUICK
PHOTOS AND MOVED ON.... BEFORE THE LOCALS REALISED IT.
HABIB KNEW ALL THE TRICKS

BACK TO THE TIZI N'TICHKA PASS OVER THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS.

OUR HOLIDAY IN MOROCCO WAS COMING TO AN END....

BUT NOT BEFORE WE SAW THE GREAT NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN...

STAY TUNED FOR MY NEXT BLOG.